Priming Cedar and Tannin Bleed with Latex Primer

I chose Zinsser latex primer to prime 2x6 cedar boards I purchased for a fascia repair. It turns out this was a terrible decision as cedar has a tendency for tannin bleed. Despite Zinsser's claims that it blocks tannins, the tannin bled through, even after three coats! And at this point I'm thinking it's still going to be a problem after another three coats. It could be that the wood is not fully dry and that is contributing to the tannin bleed. However, I have no way to determine, not having a moisture meter, like most DIYers.

Some searching reveals that an oil based primer is recommended for cedar. But, while you can paint latex over oil, it is not recommended to paint oil over latex. So now I'm stuck with limited options:

1. Ditch these boards and just go with a primed finger joint board. That's going to set me back about $50. Not an extravagant amount but I feel I need to deal with this mistake and it'd be wasteful just to toss the cedar boards.

2. Sand down the rough unpainted side of the board and use Kilz Complete.

3. Keep priming more latex and hope it goes away.

I went with option #2. At first I tried the spray can but I could barely get one coat on all boards. That was too bad since spraying is super fast and leaves a nice finish. Back to HD and I bought a quart of Kilz for about $7 and painted a few coats on with a foam brush. I kept the brush in the freezer, wrapped in foil between coats so I could reuse the brush and toss when done -- cleaning oil based paint is nasty business!

In hindsight I should have done some more researching. Oil paint is nasty to deal with: fumes + messy cleanup, but it seems this is one application that requires it. Doing it over again I would have opted for the pine boards. The only downside is they are not as durable as cedar. The other problem with the latex paint on cedar is the water in the paint raises the grain; this was significant in a few areas.