Friday, November 13, 2015

Installing Door Casing

Our 70s house has plenty of trim challenges with doors close to walls/electrical outlets and low ceilings. The first closet I started to trim was close to a wall and the wall is not even plumb, so I had to scribe the casing and cut it at an angle. That's one thing table saws don't do, so to do so built a very rudimentary taper jig. I tacked the 1x4 to another piece of 1x4, using a shim to get 3/16" offset. Then I can feed it into the saw with the other 1x4 riding along the fence. Oh and the 1x4 was crowned so I needed a second shim in the middle to straighten it out. Ideally I'll find a strip of plywood or mdf to use instead of the 1x4. I fed it through the table saw and it cut nearly perfectly. The boards were actually longer than necessary by a couple inches so I could cut off the nailed areas.

There are several doors in the house where the trim will need to sit flush against a wall, so I'll be doing more of these style of cuts. In those situations I'll bevel the board by 10 degrees or so to prevent any drywall anomalies in the corner (taping, compound etc) from pushing the piece out.



The 1x4s that I ordered are 16 feet in length. I paid $1.24/lf. Shortly after I got started I realized 1. I paid a premium for the longer boards and 2. I always end up cutting them at 82" so I could have simply bought 8' boards at home depot for less. The baseboard is different and for that I want 16' boards to minimize joints.

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